Iceland in October: What to Expect in Late Fall (Northern Lights, Lagoons & More)
- Michelle Nicholson
- Nov 20
- 14 min read
Updated: Nov 27
My honest experience + what I’d recommend, what I’d skip, and how to plan the perfect late-fall Iceland trip.
📍 Destination Iceland
🗓️ Dates Traveled October 2025
🌦️ Weather Low to mid 30’s + wind + some rain/snow
🧭 Trip Type Adventure
💰 Budget Range $$-$$$
🚗 Duration 7 days/6 nights
Iceland has been on my bucket list for a few years. I’ve seen lots of so many amazing photos and had friends and family visit — mostly in summer. But I decided to go in late fall/early winter to try to see the Northern Lights. Last year I tried in Norway and struck out, so this time I chose a different location: Iceland.
One of my friends, David (who went to Norway with me last year), was available to come on this trip too, and we were both on a mission to finally see the Northern Lights. We booked our flights and planned everything in September — a little last-minute — but surprisingly easy since October is more of a shoulder/off-season.
Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik + Northern Lights Tour
When we arrived in Iceland, we picked up our rental car and headed to the hotel. We
dropped our stuff off and walked toward the city to explore. We walked along the water to see the Sun Voyager sculpture as well as the Harpa Concert Hall. It was way windier than we expected, so we didn’t wander long and ended up at the closest food hall for dinner.
We ate at Hafnartorg Gallery. There were a handful of options, but we chose La Trattoria. I got the small portion of the tagliatelle and David got the risotto al funghi. The dishes we tried were just okay, so if you eat here I’d recommend browsing the other stalls since there were several that looked great. This food hall has tons of variety, so it’s a fun stop if you’re exploring the area.
After dinner, we headed back to the hotel to get ready for our Northern Lights tour, which picked us up around 8:30 pm. The tour we booked included free rebooking if we didn’t see lights, plus hot chocolate, Icelandic pastries, and photographs.
Our driver, Devin — an expat from Arizona — was super entertaining and kept us engaged with Northern Lights facts and Icelandic trivia. We got lucky at our first stop only 20 minutes outside of the city and saw the lights right away. Devin said he’d rate the activity at about 5–5.5 out of 10.
What I found interesting was that you can’t really see the Northern Lights with the naked eye at that level. You need your phone’s camera to pick up the colors. Apparently if the activity is strong enough you don’t need your phone, but most nights you see the real colors through a lens.
The hot chocolate was warm and delicious but the pastries were dry and pretty bland. Devin did say to dunk them in the hot chocolate, which helped a little, but still not my thing.
We drove to a few locations to get different views, and Devin set up his camera to take photos of the aurora and of us — honestly, they came out way better than anything we took on our phones. They sent the photos via Google Drive the next day, which was great.
Pro tip: If you’re doing a Northern Lights tour (or going on your own), bring a tripod. The wind makes it almost impossible to keep your hand steady. Even braced shots blur.
Around midnight, the activity wasn’t improving and we were all tired, so we headed back. Overall, this was a great experience and I’d rate it 5 out of 5 — would definitely recommend.
Day 2: Golden Circle + Sky Lagoon
The next morning we headed out to the Golden Circle. We drove to Þingvellir National Park and saw Öxarárfoss waterfall, the Geysir geothermal area, and Gullfoss.
The Golden Circle was a good warm-up for the rest of the waterfalls we’d see on the trip. Öxarárfoss was pretty, but nothing stood out to me. There’s a nice walking path throughout the park that’s probably amazing in summer.
The Geysir geothermal area has a strong sulfur smell and a decent crowd around the geysir itself. What’s nice is that it erupts about every 10 minutes. It can shoot up high, but if it’s windy (like when we were there) it won’t be as impressive. We saw it erupt three times; the biggest was maybe 15–20 feet. A woman behind me said the day before it shot up around 40+ feet. It’s all luck and how long you want to stand around.
Gullfoss was our last stop. It’s a double-tiered waterfall that looks really cool in person. Photos don’t capture the depth well — the top tier is small but the second drop goes down pretty far.
After that, we drove back toward Reykjavik and stopped at the famous Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand. We weren’t sure what the hype was about, but once we tried them we understood: long, thin lamb hot dogs with crispy fried onions and raw onions, topped with ketchup, mustard, and mayo. The crunchy onions made it. I’d definitely recommend stopping here. They can be super popular in summer, but we didn’t have a long wait. Fun fact: they sell 2,000–3,000 hot dogs a day.
Afterwards, we wandered the main shopping street, Laugavegur, checked out some shops, and stopped at Baka Baka for a piece of rhubarb cake and a tomato-basil pastry. The rhubarb cake had a more subtle, lightly tart flavor — not overly sweet — which could be perfect if you don’t love super-rich desserts. The tomato basil pastry, though, was the star and absolutely worth grabbing.
Another very cool store was The Handknitting Association of Iceland. They sell tons of hand-knit apparel and accessories. The sweaters are definitely an investment piece, but the craftsmanship is incredible. If you’re looking for a truly authentic Icelandic keepsake, this is the spot. As we were finishing up downtown, we made sure to walk by Hallgrímskirkja, a Lutheran church with super cool architecture.
After that we headed to Sky Lagoon. We chose the most popular package, Saman (Seven-Step Ritual) and booked ahead on Viator (we had a car but if you don't have a car you would need to book this tour because it includes a transfer from the city). You have to choose a time slot, so book in advance or you might not get a spot.
The 7-step ritual starts in the heated lagoon (with an infinity-style edge overlooking the ocean). When you’re ready, you move to the cold plunge — they want you to submerge for 30 seconds if you can — then hurry into the gorgeous sauna. There are two sides (phones vs. no phones), but honestly both sides looked the same and the views were incredible.
After the sauna you go into a cold mist room, apply a salt scrub, then relax in the steam room, shower, and finish with a crowberry elixir shot. We spent another hour in the lagoon afterward.
The locker rooms were great: towels, shampoo/conditioner/body wash, hairdryers — everything is provided. The lockers work with a bracelet system, so you just tap your bracelet to lock and unlock your locker, which makes it super easy. You only need a swimsuit and a change of clothes.
Also worth noting: Sky Lagoon has a swim-up bar inside the lagoon area, which is very fun (drinks are pricey everywhere in Iceland, but the vibe of standing in warm water with a drink while overlooking the ocean is unmatched).
For dinner we wanted something warm, so we went to Momo Ramen. It's a small space, counter seating, options including vegetarian, chicken, and pork. I got the sesame one — not very traditional, very sesame-forward. While we were eating we met couples from NYC and the Bay Area who felt the same: the flavors were different from traditional Japanese ramen we’re used to in the U.S., but still comforting on a chilly night. If you’re nearby and want something warm, it’s a cozy option.
Day 3: South Coast Waterfalls
The next morning we started our South Coast adventure. We went to two waterfalls that share the same parking lot (FYI: When entering many parking lots in Iceland you’ll notice the company takes a photo of your license plate. After your visit you pay at a machine or online based on that plate. Parking fees really add up everywhere): Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi.
Seljalandsfoss is super cool because you can walk behind it. In winter, I would absolutely recommend crampons — people were wiping out left and right due to the ice on the ground. We didn’t have them but we’re fairly athletic, so we managed. The trail moves counter-clockwise and you climb over some slippery rocks to get behind the falls, then exit on a much easier path.
Gljúfrabúi is a short walk from the first fall, partially hidden inside a slot canyon. You step on rocks through shallow water to get inside. It’s one-way in/one-way out, so people have to yell directions to each other — felt like a real-life game of telephone and also language barriers with all of the tourists. Once inside, there’s a big rock at the base that makes for a very cool photo.
Pro tip: You will get wet — gloves, hat, shoes, socks, pants, jacket. Unless you have fully waterproof gear, bring dry backups. Even with waterproof things, bring extra gloves, hats, socks, and shoes.
Next up was Skógafoss. Skógafoss is a classic Iceland waterfall — powerful, dramatic, and super easy to view from the base. If you’re short on time, the lower viewpoint gives you everything you need, but the stairs are great if you want extra steps and another angle.
After this we stopped in Vík for lunch at Halldórskaffi. We both got lamb sandwiches and split a piece of apple pie. The apple pie had a softer European-style crust, which is different from what we’re used to in the States but still enjoyable if you prefer a more tender texture.
From there we went to Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. It’s famous for a Game of Thrones scene (the Hound and Arya on horseback). Because we arrived when the canyon was shaded, the colors were more muted — but with good lighting this place is incredibly photogenic. If skies are clear when you pass by, definitely stop. There’s also a bigger canyon that’s even better — Múlagljúfur — but we didn’t make it there.
We planned to stay the night in Höfn. On the way we stopped to see the glaciers near Jökulsárlón, even though our tour was scheduled to start there the next day. The evening light was cool so we figured why not.
In Höfn, we tried to go to a few popular restaurants but they were full and we were starving, so we ended up at Íshúsið. This wasn’t our favorite meal of the trip, but we also came in hungry and without a reservation. Höfn has several great restaurants (like Pakkhús), so I’d make a reservation early if you want one of the popular spots.
Day 4: Ice Cave + Jökulsárlón
The next morning we went back to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon for our ice-cave/glacier tour. Our guide was a native Icelander and explained how natural ice caves form — meltwater finding weaknesses in the glacier.
We were a bit unlucky: because of recent winds, the ice had a unique moon-like look with darker tones instead of bright blue. Every ice cave is different week-to-week, and ours had a dramatic, otherworldly feel that was still really beautiful.
She mentioned the best time for ice caves is February, when the ice is cleaner.
Every year the caves melt and new ones form, so guides scout them with drones and on foot before each season. I thought that was fascinating.
After the tour we went back to the lagoon to take more photos. There are boat tours that go right out to the icebergs, but we just took pictures and grabbed lunch from the food trucks/café.
Our guide also told us to check out Svartifoss (Black Waterfall), which was already on our list. The basalt columns look really cool in person. In summer you can walk closer, but everything was icy and slushy when we visited so we didn’t go too far. I would definitely recommend checking out this waterfall.
Next we stopped at Viking Park to see Yoda’s Cave (Hjörleifshöfði). It’s a quick stop with a fun shape that resembles Yoda’s head. If you’re already passing through the area, it’s an easy add-on; otherwise I’d prioritize the waterfalls and glacier views before this one.
Then we stopped at Kvernufoss. Kvernufoss is a beautiful waterfall and quieter than some of the big-name ones. It’s not as large as Seljalandsfoss or Skógafoss, but it’s a peaceful stop with great photo opportunities.
Costco (Important Stop!) + Blue Lagoon
We originally didn't think about Costco but a friend had mentioned it to me while we were in the middle of the trip and we had extra time before Blue Lagoon so we stopped by to check it out.
Pro tip: go at the beginning of your trip!
The snacks are different (and really good) from what we have in the states, and we found amazing fresh baked brownies. The food court also has items we don’t have in the U.S. The hot dog was pre-assembled so the texture was softer, but still fun to try since it’s different from the U.S. version. Also, it is not $1.50 but close!
From Costco we went to Blue Lagoon. It’s noticeably bigger and more commercial than Sky Lagoon. The parking lot is huge, and you walk past geothermal pools to get in — strong sulfur smell included. You can book in the same way as Sky Lagoon by choosing a time to attend and if you need a transfer from the airport or city, you can book through this tour.
Inside, everything feels systematic. The locker room uses the same bracelet system as Sky Lagoon, but has more of a gym aesthetic. Depending on which package you book, you get an extra wristband for drinks and masks. We did the basic package (one mask + one drink).
Similar to Sky Lagoon, Blue Lagoon also has a swim-up bar. Blue Lagoon had more temperature variation, which some people actually prefer since you can move between warm pockets and cooler spots. If you love steaming-hot sections, Sky Lagoon has a slightly cozier feel.
Verdict:
If you only choose one, go to Sky Lagoon.
If you want to do both, do Blue Lagoon first, then Sky Lagoon — otherwise Sky will ruin Blue for you.
After showering we went back into Reykjavik for dinner at Hereford Steakhouse. Our guide had talked up horse steak as her favorite protein to eat, so we did the research to find a place that served it. We tried both horse steak and puffin.
Puffins are adorable, so this was morally conflicting, but I still tried it. They only eat fish, so there’s a VERY fishy aftertaste that got stronger with each bite. These were fun to try since they’re considered very Icelandic, but the flavors are definitely unique. I’m glad we experienced it once, but next time I’d try other local seafood dishes, which Iceland is famous for.
Day 6: Snæfellsnes Peninsula
While at Blue Lagoon, my friend slipped getting into the water (missed the mat) and bruised his foot badly, so we skipped the hike we planned. Based on the weather, we didn’t miss much.
We started at Búðakirkja (Black Church). It was very photogeni and a super quick stop — maybe 5 minutes. There were a few tour buses, but everyone mostly wandered through the fields, likely because they had a lot of time to spend there.
From there we went to the Gatklettur arch near Arnarstapi — another quick stop. In summer I think this whole area is far more scenic and more pleasant to wander around.
We tried to get lunch here but one restaurant’s ordering system was down and the other was full, so we kept going.
We stopped at Lóndrangar Viewpoint — more cliffs, another quick stop — then headed to Djúpalónssandur, another black sand beach. We just did the viewpoint because it was cold, windy, snowy, and we’d already done a black sand beach earlier.
For lunch we stopped at Kaffi 59. I got fish and chips (okay, expensive), David got a burger, and we split a piece of carrot cake. Again, the food was fine...nothing great but not offensive.
After lunch we backtracked a little to see Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss. In winter, the lighting and snow can make Kirkjufellsfoss feel more subtle, but the mountain itself is iconic. If you have good visibility or are visiting in summer, the view is stunning.
Next we went to Selvallafoss and it was a much better waterfall than Kirkjufellsfoss. If you're in the area I'd stop for a quick look as it's a very pretty waterfall.
On our way back we stopped at Ytri-Tunga (seal beach), which we should have stopped at when we first entered the peninsula so had to essentially start the loop again. In the winter there are fewer seals but in summer there are tons. We saw three seals resting and a few swimming. You have to be quiet and to view them you’re pretty far away and the rocks are slippery so be careful. It was a cool stop but definitely seems like a more summer friendly option. Either way, you'll need to climb on rocks a bit so be careful with your footing.
Final Take: Would I Do It the Same Way Again?
Iceland was definitely fun and it felt great to finally check the Northern Lights off my list. If I did this trip again, I’d switch up a few things based on what I learned — mostly season and packing. Iceland has so many different personalities depending on when you visit, and I’d love to experience it in summer next time.
Compared to Norway, I preferred the scenery there, so if the sole goal was Northern Lights, I’d probably choose Norway or Finland. I’d return to Iceland in the summer (which I plan to) to see puffins, head north for Dettifoss, and avoid all the ice that made simple things — like walking and running — kind of annoying.
Cost reality:
Everyone told me Iceland was expensive, but I didn’t fully get it until I was there. Coming from the Bay Area, I already expect high prices — and Iceland was higher. Food can be pricey in Iceland, so I’d plan to mix restaurants with road-trip snacks and bakery stops — it helps balance cost and keeps things easy. Gas is expensive and parking fees added up fast but hotels prices were actually reasonable as was the car rental.
Snacks lean simpler in Iceland, so stocking up at Costco early in your trip is a great way to stay prepared. I saw people making car sandwiches and that’s probably the move for lunches: easier, cheaper, and honestly better than a lot of what we tasted along this winter route.
What I Recommend (Must-Do)
Do this (my favorites):
Seljalandsfoss + Gljúfrabúi (crampons in winter)
Sky Lagoon (do this after Blue Lagoon if doing both)
Jökulsárlón + Ice Cave (February is peak blue)
Ytri-Tunga (summer seals > winter, still cool)
Búðakirkja + Gatklettur (quick, photogenic)
Could skip (for me):
Íshúsið pizza in Höfn (replace with Pakkhús)
Yoda Cave (Hjörleifshöfði) — fee not worth the payoff
Fjaðrárgljúfur in flat light (beautiful only in the right lighting)
Kirkjufellsfoss in winter if you’re already waterfall-ed out
Tours I'd Recommend
Practical Tips
When you pick up your rental car you will need to get a ticket from the ticket machine for your rental company and then go to the desk when your number is called - don't just queue and wait to be helped
Many parking lots photograph your license plate as you enter.
You pay by license plate either:
At a kiosk before you leave, or
Online within the time window.
When driving, no right turn on red.
There are a lot of roundabouts (traffic circles) and the inside lane has priority. It takes a few busy ones to get used to it but then you'll understand the flow.
Sidewalks are heated but not always on early morning.
Gas is expensive and also fill up before driving through remote areas.
Tap water is insanely good.
We traveled more frugally than usual (unemployed era!), so our trip skewed $$, but a “normal” version would easily be $$$.
Packing List for Iceland in Late Fall/Winter
Iceland in late fall is wet, windy, and cold. If you plan on chasing waterfalls, walking behind them, exploring ice caves, and dealing with sideways rain, waterproof gear is not optional. Learn from my mistakes so you don’t freeze your butt off.
Here’s everything I brought and everything I wish I’d brought. I’m also adding products below that I recommend (you can click to shop through my affiliate links — it supports the blog at no extra cost to you 💛).
What I Actually Packed
Lululemon leggings
Hoka running shoes
Columbia hiking boots (technically waterproof but the tongue was where the water was getting my socks wet)
Hiking socks + running socks
Lightweight gloves
Pom-pom beanie (helmet incompatible 😂)
Patagonia rain jacket
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket (no hood)
Patagonia Nano Puff vest
Hiking pants (not waterproof)
What I Wish I Packed
Waterproof pants (top of the regret list)
Waterproof hiking boots with fully gusseted tongue
Crampons (people fell everywhere and we somehow survived - you could also rent these)
A heavier jacket with a hood
Multiple gloves (at least 2–3 pairs)
Heavy mittens for ice-cold days
More base/mid layers
More hiking socks
Recommendations
☐ Waterproof pants / snow pants (highly recommended — they make a huge difference at waterfalls)
→ Recommended:
☐ Windproof tripod (MUST for Northern Lights)
→ Recommended:
☐ Portable battery pack (cold kills phone batteries)
→ Recommended: